Wednesday, November 30, 2011

Chef Mik's Semlor

About Semlor: Originally these little cream filled buns hark back to the days before Sweden embraced the Lutheran church and were eaten on fat Tuesday with warm milk, though now a days Swedes tend to devour them whenever they can, many of them making themselves sick overdosing on their shire decadence, in fact its said the late King Adolf Fredrik ate so many he croaked!

FoodPerfected must bake truck loads of semlor every year to satisfy the Swedish masses here in Los Angeles, last year we baked one for SWEA that was over 4LB’s and had ½ gallon whipped cream in it!! At work we make our semlor completely from scratch, including the almond paste! We use the highest quality cardamom available and use real Madagascar vanilla in our whipped cream. At home one has a bit more freedom and can be a bit more flexible and on that note here are some helpful baking tips and pointers I hope will help you with your finished product. I am using a combination of pastry flour which ranges from about 9% to 11% protein, and all purpose which ranges somewhere between 11 to 13%, if the protein is two high the dough will be very bread like in consistency. Here I am using baking powder, however traditionally in Sweden when baking; Swede’s typically use something known as "hjorthornssalt" which loosely translates to “baker’s ammonia”, though hardly used anymore today as baking powder has become so readily available. To help prevent sticking be sure to cover the cookie tray covered with greased parchment paper, also be sure not to over crowd or the buns will stick together. Another thing to be mindful of is not to over proof the dough or the end result will not live up to expectations. To that end some signs to look out for are if the dough appears wrinkled, looks some what collapsed they are over proofed. One way to check if the buns have proofed and prevent over proofing tap them they should feel tight and bounce back quickly, if they do so they are ready to go into the oven. I like to brush my buns with a little egg wash, although it is not mandatory as they will be covered in powdered sugar, the reason I do so is I just feel it helps with the browning process. Another thing I like to do is when I prepare my almond paste I like to incorporate the filling from the buns I have hollowed again not mandatory.

Shopping List
Unsalted butter
Heavy cream
Whole milk
Eggs
Yeast
Sugar
Confectioner’s sugar
Blanched almonds
Almond extract
Pastry flour
All purpose flour
Baking powder
Vanilla stick, purée, or extract
Cardamom
Salt

My Mad Method 

Ready to eat!!

Using a dough hook start by mixing together 2 dl melted butter, 3 dl warm whole milk, 2 eggs and 2 TBSP instant yeast









Sift together 1.2 L pastry and all purpose flour, 2 dl sugar, a pinch of salt, 4 tsp baking powder and 1 tsp cardamom; add to the mixer in batches








If you have incorporated all your flour and it is still sticking to the bowl add more flour a very little at a time until it has completely released itself









The dough is finished and ready for action!











Transfer the dough to a lightly greased bowl, cover with a cloth, and store in warm place for about a half an hour









When the dough has raised and almost doubled in size as it has here it will be ready for the next step, at which point flatten out, divide in two









Weigh out 150g pieces, form into balls, place on sheet pans, proof (allow rising time) for 30 minutes until they have nearly doubled in size









When the buns have proofed, place them in a 200c preheated oven and bake for 15 to 20 minutes











The buns are ready when browned and if taped should feel hollow’ish, cool on a wire rack, slice off the lid, set aside but do not discard. Hollow out the bun.








Prepare the almond paste; 100g blanched almonds, 100g confectioners sugar, 1-2 TBSP each almond extract, and egg white,1 tsp water puree until smooth








Whip heavy cream to stiff peaks adding confectioners (powdered) sugar and vanilla when almost finished









Place 1 TBSP almond paste in each bun fill with whipped cream return the lid and sprinkle the top with some confectioners sugar. SEMLOR!!

Tuesday, November 29, 2011

Chef Mik's Take on Moussaka

Moussaka is basically a casserole one might think of as the Greek answer to Lasagna, made with egg plant, potatoes, and meat usually in some form of tomato sauce, topped with Sauce Béchamel. Its name comes from the Greek Chef Nicholas Tselementes the father of the modern Greek kitchen, and I can tell you from personal experience his influence can be felt through out the land (and islands of course). My first time in Greece now well over 20 years ago, nearly every day for 2 weeks straight at some point I had Moussaka. Typically seasoned with cinnamon and all spice, and everything nice, sometimes beef sometimes lamb, always a treat. I have been preparing Moussaka for years even worked in a Greek restaurant back in Europe for a time and make the dish several ways including a Yugoslavian version along with a few modifications of my own. For today’s incantation I will be using lamb, I have also decided on forsaking cinnamon and all spice and taking a different route this time round using fresh herbs which blend well with lamb. I will also use grilled Japanese eggplant, oven roasted fingerling potatoes and will substitute sauce Mornay instead of the classic Béchamel Tselementes made so popular in his home land. I like to make moussaka whenever I have left over cooked egg plant, potatoes and ground lamb on hand as opposed to prepping everything a la minute. As for special touches and/or other extras one thing that is not so typical in this dish but makes a great addition is pine nuts for anyone willing to live on the edge…

Shopping list
Ground lamb
Fingerling potatoes
Egg plant
Prepared tomato sauce, or homemade
Prepared béchamel or homemade
Kefalotyri or Parmesan cheese
Onions  
Garlic
Thyme
Rosemary
Bread crumbs
Sea salt
Black pepper
Extra virgin olive oil

My Mad Method

These are oven roasted fingerling potatoes seasoned with garlic, fresh rosemary, sea salt and black pepper, tossed in extra virgin olive oil









These are grilled Japanese eggplant that have been brushed with extra virgin olive oil, sea salt and cracked black pepper









This is a roasted pepper - tomato sauce with addition of egg plant and sundried tomatoes. But any tomato based sauce you like is fine









Brown 450 g lamb with 150g diced onion, 1 tsp garlic, fresh rosemary and thyme to taste










Add 5 dl tomato based sauce, bring to a boil, lower temp simmer 30 minutes, adjust seasoning with salt and pepper to taste








Add 2 TBS olive oil to a baking pan, add 1-2 TBSP bread crumbs coat evenly










Begin with a layer of potatoes











Add a layer of egg plant











Add a layer of meat sauce











Dust with Kefalotyri or Parmesan cheese, repeat layering one more time. Some people only use one layer of potatoes









Top the casserole with a final layer of 0.8-1 L sauce Mornay to which 3 egg yokes have been mixed in, bake in a 200c preheated oven for about 45 minutes or until nicely browned on top








Ready to eat!!

Can serve with extra sauce, garnish as you please

Monday, November 28, 2011

Chef Mik's Coq Au Vin

Coq au vin is a very classic dish traditionally prepared with a rooster which most likely dates back to the days of the Romans. A very earthy dish full of flavor, only takes a few basic essentials and you are on your way! While salt pork (pancetta, lardon, sidfläsk) is most often used bacon is fine. Also as for the red wine more often the not burgundy is the wine of choice however most any red wine will do (not merlot). If you use white wine in place of red the dish is referred to as either coq au blanc or poulet au vin blanc. As for me well, I am using a cabernet from my favorite winery in the Los Angeles area “Saddle Rock” a selection from Malibu Family Wines.

This is a really great dish it’s no wonder it’s been around so long, and the key to the dish is not over thinking it, keep it nice and simple and you’ll be rewarded for your efforts! I like to make this dish in stages whenever possible, here are some idea’s of how I go about it. When I make chicken stock I like to use the back portion, neck, head and feet of the carcass, saving the breasts to be grilled as an entrée or for sandwiches what have you. I also reserve the thighs and drumsticks to be fried or if I will be preparing a sauté, braise or other stew I will prep the legs ahead so they are ready to be used when needed which is what I did here. This simply entails seasoning the chicken with salt and pepper, dredging them in flour then simply browning them off in a pan. In fact yesterday when I was preparing my stock and sautéing my chicken I also prepped the other components; I am using apple wood smoked slab bacon, reserve the bacon drippings to use for your stew later on. I am using crimini mushrooms but most any mushroom will do and instead of pearl onions I am using cipollini onions. Having done that will cut down my prep time today significantly.

Shopping List
Chicken
Salt pork or bacon
Red wine
Poultry stock or broth
Onions
Mushrooms
Leeks
Carrots
Celery
Garlic
Thyme
Parsley
Bay leaves
Unbleached all purpose flour
Arrowroot or corn starch


My Mad Method

Prep chicken by seasoning them with salt and pepper, dredging them in flour, shallow pan frying (browning), drain well set aside








Prep bacon; cutting them to desired length, frying them in a pan, drain well on paper towels; I cut mine in long strips for presentation purposes







Prep the mushrooms and onions by cleaning them, then browning them off in a pan, when done set aside and reserve until needed







Sauté 1 leek, 1 carrot, 2 stocks celery and 2 cloves garlic bruised (optional) in reserved bacon drippings







Add chicken heat through










Add 5 dl chicken stock, 3 to 4 dl’s red wine and bouquet garni bring to boil reduce heat and simmer for 45 minutes







When ready remove chicken and set aside. Discard herbs and strain the sauce returning the liquid to the pot, add mushrooms, onions and bacon simmer 30 minutes longer






Adjust seasoning with salt and pepper, thicken if need be with arrowroot or cornstarch diluted in stock or water and serve

Ready to eat!!
 

Saturday, November 26, 2011

Chef Mik's Veal Marsala

When I think about American style Italian food one of the first things I think of is veal marsala, a very nice, very simple sauté. More often then not served Stateside with pasta of some sort, though I imagine when served in Italy it would follow pasta at the dinner table. The wine is of course a key player in this dish, a fortified wine inspired by the English mans love of Porto and Sherry. Marsala wine travels well and was quite seaworthy which helped it rise in popularity. this was do to the fact it did not spoil quickly in the unstable and quite hostile environment it was stored in, on those ships as it had hard alcohol added to it in the case of marsala brandy was the alcohol of choice. On that note, it’s highly recommended one use a wine for the cooking process one would not be afraid to drink. As for the other essentials of the dish, I am using veal scaloppini which are thin cuts of meat derived from the sirloin, but cutlets are also quite common. A word of advice scaloppini cook rather quickly so just be mindful of that fact, this is also why I like to get my sauce going before I start browning the meat. As for the sauce, I prefer using veal stock and demi glace as apposed to beef and/or poultry stock as I have done so today. You can use most mushrooms for this dish, white button, cremini or portobello are quite common, I will be using baby bello. Lastly, many people will add thyme along with other herbs and spices which is perfectly fine however I think this dish is great just the way it is, nice and simple.  

Shopping List
Veal scaloppini or cutlets
Mushrooms
Shallots
Beef or veal stock
Demi glace
Sweet marsala wine
Unbleached all-purpose flour
Butter
Extra virgin olive oil
Sea salt
Black pepper

My Mad Method

Prep the veal ahead of time by slice veal into thin strips, and clean it of excess debris







Begin the sauce by adding about a TBSP extra virgin olive oil and melting about 1 TBSP butter to a hot pan








Add 6 baby bello or other mushroom sliced thick and sauté









When the mushrooms have color and are somewhat softened add one shallot sliced or chopped and 1 clove garlic minced sauté a minute or so longer






Add 4 dl sweet marsala wine, 4 dl veal or beef stock and 1 TBSP demi glace, reduce by 1 quarter, set aside







Dredge the veal in seasoned unbleached all purpose flour, I have only added seas salt and black pepper








Heat a sauté pan add about 2 TBSP each extra virgin olive oil and clarified butter, when nice and hot start browning the veal








Flip the veal and brown on the other side as well a minute or so longer







Add the sauce and sauté for 3 to 4 minute until meat is cooked through and sauce has reduced by ¼ , if desired melt a little butter into the sauce






Ready to serve!!









Ready to eat!!

Friday, November 25, 2011

Chef Mik's Corny Corn Bread

This is a basic Southern style corn bread recipe, a dense, savory cake type bread made with either yellow or white cornmeal. One may substitute additional flour for a portion of the cornmeal if you’d prefer a lighter version. To this base recipe I have also added 1 tea spoon of sugar which simply isn’t done if you are a purest. However I am a firm believer in knowing the rules first before breaking them.

From an historical perspective its hard to say how long corn bread has been around however the native Americans were making a version of corn bread known as “pone” before the white man arrived in the new world. Modern day corn bread however is traditionally prepared in an iron skillet though you can prepare them in a cake pan, pie pan or muffin tins. It should be noted thou if you decide to bake them in a muffin tin as muffins it is recommended one employ at least equal parts cornmeal and flour if not 2 parts flour to 1 part cornmeal. You can add just about anything to the basic batter you like, example include: creamed or grilled corn, chilies, peppers, sundried tomatoes, black beans, bacon, sausage, fresh or dried herbs and so on. You can also pan fry, deep fry or grill corn bread. Many people will substitute mayonnaise for part or all of the eggs, back in our café we use to prepare chipotle mayo for sandwiches and if I had any on hand I would add a spoon or two every now and again to our cornbread batter. Of course this is by no means a necessity, Corn bread is super simple and taste super good, so bake a batch and enjoy!

Shopping List
Cornmeal
All purpose or self rising flour
Baking powder
Baking soda
Butter milk
Eggs
Bacon
Corn
Green and red jalapeño chilies
Onions
Salt
Pepper


My Mad Method

Render 100g bacon in an Iron skillet or sauté pan, set aside bacon and reserve fat










Mix 7.5dl corn meal (not corn starch), 2.5dl all purpose flour, 3 tsp baking powder, 1/2 tsp baking soda, 1 tsp salt, and 1 tsp sugar






Mix together 2.5dl butter milk, and 2 eggs











It should resemble a thick pan cake batter, add 1TBSP bacon drippings and just enough water so that it is pourable






Fold in the reserved bacon, 50g grilled corn, 25g grilled green and red jalapeño chilies, and 25g grilled onions






Place the skillet in a 200c preheated oven with the remainder of the bacon fat, heat through. Sprinkle some cornmeal before adding batter





Pour the batter evenly into the pan and level off the top, place in oven for 20-30 minutes until firm in the center







Fresh out of the oven, and ready to serve!!







Ready to eat!!