Chef Mik's Ris ala Malta

Ris ala Malta is basically a sweet, chilled rice porage or pudding served at Christmas time on the "Julbord" (Scandinavian style Christmas buffet aka smorgasbord). Either way it’s a great dessert and simple to make. The key ingredient is the rice which is a short grain such as sushi rice or even better yet Arborio rice, both of which are high in starch thus it is important to rinse the rice well before cooking to wash away some of that starch. One thing to bare in mind though is, a key components that’s makes Japanese rice perfect for sushi is its high gluten content which binds liquid making it sticky to the touch, for those who suffer from celiac disease Arborio is the rice for you. Traditionally this dish is served with either a fruit sauce or fresh citrus such as oranges or mandarins. That said there are plenty of cooks and chefs who like to present it with an aspic on top most often prepared with fruit juice such as raspberry or orange juice, if you allow the aspic to begin to settle you can even add a slice of orange or maybe strawberry then pore a little more aspic over just to cover then simply chill for a nice presentation. As for me, well today I am serving my Ris ala Malta with a raspberry sauce prepared with one container fresh raspberries, the juice of one orange and sugar to taste. It can be rather filling as such I offer only a moderate serving and get about 10 portions out of this recipe. Also while I am not doing so today one thing I like to do from time to time is place a cinnamon stick in the liquid while cooking, I have even known those who have added cardamom to there’s. In closing let me simply add this; I think the best advice anyone can give before preparing this dish is not to over think it, simply try it once and when you succeed the next time you make it if you like try experimenting with it.

Shopping List

Short grain rice such as Arborio or Japanese sushi rice

Milk

Cream

Vanilla

Confectioner’s sugar

Baker’s sugar

Raspberries

Oranges

My Mad Method

Begin by rinsing 4dls rice well

Combine the rice along with 3dl’s water and 3dl’s whole milk in a sauce pan

Bring to a boil, cover reduce temperature and simmer for 20 minutes

When the rice is done, cool the rice to room temperature by spreading it out on a sheet pan

Meanwhile whip 6dl heavy cream to stiff peeks, just before its ready add confectioners sugar (powdered sugar) and vanilla to taste, it should be sweet

When the rice has cooled add it to a mixing bowl and fold in 2/3rds of the whipped cream, then gently fold in the remaining cream

Ready to serve!!

Ready to eat!!

If desired serve with additional whipped cream, and fruit sauce

 

Chef Mik's Butterscotch Crème

You use to be able to find butterscotch all over town, a true American classic to be sure, and so easy to make!! Now as butterscotch is making a comeback it’s like vintage clothing what once was chic, is chic once again.

Butterscotch is basically an extension of a caramel, with the addiction of cream, vanilla, and eggs to make a pudding that’s it and your home free!  Having said that know this, when the pudding is done make sure to cool them to room temperature then chill at least 3 hours longer in a refrigerator to assure best results. Also the measurements may very, as a sauce you really need more butter for the sugar to melt in, at any rate this is a basic recipe from which you can add you’re own special touch, typically it is served with whipped cream, it's also great prepared with either a little rum and coconut flakes or with banana.

Back in the kitchen we use to use butterscotch in several ways and in several dishes for our catering and for the café. This much I can tell you, when ever somebody would make a pudding out of it I was always the first to offer my sampling services, besides I was the boss so it’s not like they could say no. In closing let me simply add this, butterscotch is among my favorite American desserts of all time!

Shopping list

Unsalted butter

Brown sugar

Heavy cream

Old fashioned or whole milk

Eggs

Vanilla

My Mad Method

Melt 2 TBSP high fat, unsalted butter

When the butter just starts to take on color add 3-4 dl dark brown sugar, mix well to fully incorporate butter, however the sugar does not need to be completely melted

Add 3 dl heavy cream, and 2 dl whole or old fashioned milk, stir on low to medium heat to melt sugar

When sugar has melted and very tiny bubbles start to form around the rim of the pan remove from heat

Meanwhile whisk together 4 egg yokes, slowly start to add the butterscotch a little at a time to temper the eggs and keep them from becoming scrambled, add vanilla.

Pore it through a strainer to catch any egg that may have been affected and scrambled. Using a pitcher as I am here or a ladle pore the batter into 2.5 dl ramekins

Place the ramekins in a baking dish and fill it half way up the side of the ramekin, bake for 45 minutes to 1 hour in a 150c preheated oven.

When ready if shaken the puddings will have the consistency of jello, chill well, then garish as desired. Ready to serve!!  

Chef Mik's Kalops, Swedish Stew with Allspice and Everything Nice!

Kalops is a classic Swedish stew that speaks to the heart of its people, “its cold outside so let stay in and make the best of it.” For my money it doesn’t get much better then this! Such a simple recipe but oh so great! It employs whole allspice and white pepper so it is important to use a spice packet or it will take work fighting your way through a mouth full of pepper corns with every bite. There is another option though which is using powdered allspice and white pepper as apposed to whole, while the later is no big deal as the stew is finished with additional salt and white pepper, I might not mention to any Swedes you have invited over for dinner that you opted for the powdered allspice as apposed to whole. Just before the stew is done it is thickened with flour diluted in liquid such as stock or water, for this recipe the quantity will be1dl liquid to about 1 TBSP flour. The stew is typically served with boiled potatoes along with pickled beats and cucumbers though neither the beats nor cucumbers are mandatory. One last point of interest, while it is most commonly prepared with beef, you can substitute, elk, venison, bison, musk ox, or caribou

Shopping List   

Stew beef, either chuck (for longer cooking time) or top sirloin

Carrots

Onion

Allspice, whole

White pepper, whole

Beef stock

Demi glace

Unbleached all purpose flour

Potatoes for boiling  

My Mad Method

Trim and portion 500g top sirloin or stew meat

Dice 1 onion, medium dice

Slice 2 carrots on the bios

Prepare spice packet with allspice, white pepper and a couple bay leaves using cheese cloth and tie up before adding to stew

Sauté onions and carrots in clarified butter with out letting them brown

Brown beef in clarified butter season lightly with salt and white pepper

When the beef is browned add the onions and carrots (do not wipe pan) warm through

Add 1L beef broth and 1 TBS demi glace bring to boil, reduce heat strain away any impurities

Add spice packet, place lid on the pot and simmer for 1 to 1.5 hours or until tender, remove from heat. Adjust consistency with thickener (see above) bring to boil, seasoning with salt and pepper to taste

Ready to eat!!

Chef Mik's Leg of Lamb Provençal

One of my favorite meats has to be lamb, I’ve loved it as far back as I can recall. Historically speaking it is one of the first animals human beings herded for its flesh, its milk and of course its thick coat. It has biblical ties as well, dating all the way back to the stories of Abraham down to Moses, and later on in the Christian books one of the only references to Jesus’ childhood was of him tending the family sheep. It is no doubt a very symbolic creature is western civilization, but that’s not why I love it, I love it because it tastes great! On that note for anyone not accustomed to the flavor let me just add this, it tastes nothing like chicken whatsoever! It is however almost as versatile, its great simply oven roasted or grilled, braised, stewed, poached or pan-fried. You can also use it ground for sausages or patties. Some cook’s and chefs marinate it, while others may prefer a nice spice rub. It’s also great stuffed; some ideas include dried fruit such as dates, figs, raisons, and apricots, to grains, nuts, herbs and so on.

As for today I am going to keep it nice and simple roasting my lamb, it has been deboned which will cut down on cooking time also making it easier to slice, making it a good choice for those who are apprehensive when there are bones involved. You can substitute lamb chops and grill them or a roast a whole rack of lamb if desired which are both quite lean and will cook much faster, something I myself do quite often. But for now I am planning on serving my leg of lamb with a tomato concassé infused with garlic this combination is typically referred to as à la Provençal. I will be presenting my roast sliced on a bed of oven roasted fingerling potato melody (multiple colors) along with French beans, but you can serve yours with whatever you like! (It’s great with couscous and/or basmati rice)  

Shopping List

Boneless leg of lamb

Rosemary

Thyme

Garlic

Extra virgin olive oil

Sea salt

Black pepper

My Mad Method

I have purchased a deboned leg of lamb, which came bound up, to prepare my lamb I have removed the netting

Pearce the flesh from the back side that is covered by a thin layer of fat, then insert slivers of garlic and fresh rosemary

Season the lamb generously with sea salt (or kosher salt) and fresh ground black pepper, infused olive oil with garlic, rosemary and thyme

Tie the lamb (not shown here) with butchers twine and roast in a 165 to 75c preheated oven. I cover my sheet pan with foil first for east clean up

When the lamb is about 60c remove it from the oven and allow it to rest for 10 minutes

Slice, tray up and it’s ready to serve!!

Ready to eat!!

Chef Mik's Pan Fried Duck Breast

I love duck, I don’t care if its pan fried, oven baked, stuffed, in plum sauce or in another bird! Everything about it is great from the fat to the breasts and legs!! Duck goes way back in our culture as a people, there are hyroglifics in Egypt depicting farmers fattening up the birds to eat and bloating the livers for what we now know as foie gras. At any rate duck is not a difficult meat to work with and as such it is a great meat for even a beginner to try cooking, show no fear!! One thing to be aware of is that like most other birds ducks have their fat covering their flesh and ducks have a lot of fat which they use as insulation, for the cook this means there will be a lot of nice fat and good eating! Today I will be preparing pan fried duck breast to take advantage of that fat as it renders, however one thing to keep in mind is that one most first score the skin side through the fat so that it does not curl up while cooking, I will then use some of that rendered fat once the duck is finished and resting to glaze my vegetables and create my sauce, great stuff!

Shopping List

Duck breast

Poultry stock or mushroom stock, I am using a wild mushroom stock

Heavy cream

Duck fat or clarified butter

Red or black current jelly

Sea salt

Corse ground black pepper

My Mad Method

Score the duck breasts by using a sharp knife and slicing through the skin and fat but not penetrating the flesh

Season the duck with salt and pepper to taste

Heat either a tsp or so of duck fat or clarified butter in a pan and place the duck in the pan skin side down start browning the duck

After about 5 minutes place the duck in a 200c preheated oven for about 8 to 10 minutes

The duck will be ready when it is medium rare, if you push down on it lightly it should spring right back

Here is the underside of the breast were the fat is, it is now nice and crispy. Allow the meat to rest before cutting into it

Meanwhile prepare sauce by pouring some of the fat off (but reserving it for future use), then adding flour in equal to the fat mix well

On low heat start adding you stock or broth then the heavy cream stirring while doing so to prevent lumps from forming.

Reduce by one third to half

Finish the sauce with a couple clicks of butter if desired and a tsp or so of jelly

Ready to eat!!

Shown here with sautéed morels, and celery root purée

 

Chef Mik's Kåldolmar aka Stuffed Cabbage

The recipes for stuffed cabbage are vast and varied, as is its predecessor stuffed grape leaves or dolma’s. As for stuffed cabbage here in the States they enjoy most likely the largest on the planet and serve them with tomato sauce. In what use to be Yugoslavia they make a great version known as sarma with the addition of sauerkraut and broth. In Sweden they serve theirs known as kåldolmar with a light gravy and lingonberries which is the version I am preparing today. King Karl XII first introduced them to Sweden after having battled with the Turks in the late 1600’s, and it has been a staple ever sense. It is quite similar to cabbage pudding which is popular all over Northern Europe. Like cabbage pudding this recipe is great just the way it is and most people don’t do much to change the basics. When they do, the most common variation would be the cabbage some use green while others prefer savoy. Beyond that the only other things that will differ from time to time is the rice more often then not a short grain such as Arborio is used however there are those who apt for a long grain instead though most any precooked rice will do. For the record, I will be preparing mine with Jasmine rice, also sometimes when I prepare cabbage pudding one thing I like to do is add either a stout porter or dark beer to my broth, which I will add to my braising liquid today, but it is by no means a necessity. Some might say I am playing it rather safe as there are of course those who would rather experiment with the dish, I have been guilty of doing so myself creating versions where in the filling consisted of wild hare and/or bore and chanterelles or having finished the dish with a nice morel mushroom sauce. . Nevertheless I have also come full circle and enjoy the classic and understand well why it enjoys that title

Shopping List

Green or savy cabbage

Ground beef

Ground pork

Rice

Eggs

Milk

Onions

Bread crumbs

Flour or corn starch

Veal or beef broth/stock

Lingonberries

Clarified butter or butter and oil

Salt

Pepper

My Mad Method

Start by prepping your cabbage, core the thick stem

Simmer the cabbage in well salted water until the leaves have softened, are pliable and have begun to release themselves

Drain the cabbage and either submerge in an ice bath of simply allow it to cool on its own

There is a thick rib that runs down the back of the leaves that attached them to the stem, gently trim a portion away, which will make them easier to roll

Filling: 2 parts ground beef, 1 part ground pork, 1 sautéed onion, precooked rice, 1 egg per pound, milk water or broth, bread crumbs salt and white pepper to taste

Place 75 grams filling in the center of the cabbage leaves, fold in sides and roll up tight

Here is an example of what the finished roll should look like

As you are preparing your rolls pack them tightly to keep them together, seem side down

Sear off the rolls in clarified butter or a combination of butter and oil, and pack tight again seem side down, add a little broth and braise for 45 min until nicely browned

Fresh out of the oven and ready to serve!! Many people life to make gravy out of the sauce, simply pore liquid over into a pot and thicken with a roux or corn starch, you can also add a touch more broth or even cream

Ready to eat!!

Shown here with pan gravy, and lingonberries