Chef Mik's Pupusas

I love pupusas, and was first introduced to them in the mid 90’s while I was working at the Bel Air Country Club, at the time I worked directly under the General Manager Charles Bernold, and there was a young lady who worked in the kitchen who made them for the staff from time to time. They come from El Salvadaore and enjoy a long history traces of which have been found dating back over 2000 years. Though they are only recently enjoying the popularity they so richly deserve. 

Pupusas are made out of the same type of corn meal, namely masa de maiz used to prepare corn tortillas. The closest thing I can compare them to would be gorditas or tamales, though like a gordita they are pan-fried on a griddle not steamed. The most common fillings are a type of Salvadorian pulled pork called chicharrón, refried beans and cheese similar to mozzarella or queso fresco called quesillo or a combination of all the above, which is how I am preparing mine today.

Over the years I have worked in a number of places around town where in someone turned out to be known for his or her pupusas, whenever this revelation would come to light I would pay particular attention picking up what I could here and there, asking questions and learned along the way. One thing I noticed is that the styles change as do the methods, for example some people prepare the dough, let it rest then form a little ball, flatten it out add a filling, then cover it with another piece of prepared dough pressing them together. Others make a little ball flatten it out add a filling then fold in the edges and flatten it out again. While still others make a ball with the dough make an indentation with their thumb pushing in the sides while turning it creating a cavity, fill it, seal the hole and flatten it out to a disk which I am doing here today. Some other differences include the use of either black beans or pinto beans. Many people buy ready made fillers while others prepare their own from scratch starting a day or two ahead as the pork takes about 8 hour’s, the beans need to be soaked then cooked then fried and pureed and the cheese is made in stages starting from separating the curds from the whey, straining the cheese curd and adding the right cultures.

Pupusas are almost always served with a cabbage slaw known as "curtido" which is similar to Swedish style pizza salad or Israeli eggless coleslaw or sauerkraut, if you are from the States just think of it as Salvadorian coleslaw. On a side note when I prepare the dressing for my curtido I add an additional 2 TBSP ättiksprit which is a much stronger version of distilled vinegar with a 12% alcohol content. Sometimes they are also served with a thin tomato-chili sauce which is simply made by charring tomatoes and or tomatillos, garlic, and red semi sweet chilies, pureeing them together, then straining off the skin and seeds

Shopping List

Slaw

Cabbage

Carrots

Onions

Scallions

Chili, Serrano or jalapeño

Distilled vinegar

Extra virgin olive oil

Oregano

Salt

Pepper

Pupusas

Masa de maiz, Latin American corn meal

Chicharrón (Salvadorian pulled pork)

Quesillo (Salvadorian cheese) or Mozzarella or quaso fresco

Refried beans

Salt

Canola and/or olive oil

My Mad Method

Ready to eat!!

Shred one head of cabbage and one pealed carrot into a bowl, pour over boiling water and let stand for 5 to 10 minutes (the longer it site the more tender the cabbage will become)

Strain the cabbage and carrot well

Return to blow add one half onion sliced thinly, a few sprigs of scallions sliced on the bias, about 1 tsp oregano, and ½ tsp cumin (optional)

Add dressing which consists of 2.5dl distilled vinegar, 1 dl water, 2 TBS extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper to taste, pore over the slaw mix to combine and let stand at least 30 minutes

Meanwhile start the dough by combining 750 ml masa de mazi, about 4 to 500ml water, ½ tsp salt and the juice from one lime (optional)

Create a soft cohesive dough that is pliable and doesn’t crumble or crack easily, allow the dough to rest for 15 to 30 minutes

Prepare filling 1: chicharrón

Prepare filling 2: re-fried bean  

Prepare filling 3: cheese, see above

Break off just enough dough to fit in the palm of your hand, about the size of a golf ball, create an indentation in the center creating a space for filling

Add just enough filling so that it comes just up to the rim but not over it

Fold in the edges of the dough, roll together again in your hand and flatten out careful making sure that it is even on all sides, no cracks or leaks

Over a medium flame heat oil, add the pupusas and pan fry for about 15 minutes or until cooked through turning from time to time. Serve warm

Ready to serve!!