Tuesday, November 27, 2012

Chef Mik's Wallenbergare



The Wallenbergare which is said to have ties to the Family Wallenberg is basically veal mousseline formed into a patty and pan-fried in clarified butter, think of it as a Swedish style veal burger if you will. Of course there are countless such combinations nowadays and they have become quite common throughout the region, but just how they all came about can leave your mind reeling! As for Sweden these types of ground meat patties are referred to as a “pannbiff” though there is a type of pannbiff simply called “pannbiff” which in turn is sort of a large flattened meatball served with onion gravy. In fact while there are several stories regarding who invented the American style hamburger one such story puts fourth the notion it was a Swedish immigrant or descendant named Lewis Lassen back in 1895 who came up with it on the fly in order to feed a customer on the run by slapping ground steak together frying it off and sticking in a bun. However this incarnation was not yet called a hamburger, ironically some ten years before hand at a fare a young man called his version which looked like a giant meatball a hamburger in order to appeal to the heavy German influx at the time. Yet perhaps my favorite concoction which for whatever reason congers images of gin joints, dimly lit pubs or saloons in my mind is referred to as “Biff ala Lindström”. Basically Biff ala Lindström is beef tartar assembled into a patty, pan fried in butter and served with either clarified butter or herb butter. The dish gets its name from one Captain Henrik Lindström who wanted to serve something Russian where he had spent much of his life to some Swedish friends at the hotel where he was staying back in the mid 1800's. legend has it that hotel serves it the same way to this day. On a side note Biff ala Lindström also popularized beets in Sweden which may have led to the beets first step in concurring the rest of Europe. Like I said leaves your mind reeling!

But I digress as for the Wallenbergare as I was saying it is basically a veal mousseline formed into a patty and pan fried. Now there a genius to this recipe in how practical it is, I should start off by adding this is by no means kosher and if you are sensitive please stop reading now. So with that, the genius in this dish comes in the form of the preciseness of the measurements (thank you metric system!) for every 100g of meat you add one egg yoke and one dl cream, how easy is that to remember? I love it when recipe is this easy to follow! Having said that there is the adage “know the rules first before you break them” and I do, well maybe not so much break them as bend them a little. I always say when people ask me why I bend the rules the way I do that being a purest is all good and well, but there is always a method to my madness! In this case I add egg yokes which act as the binder then slowly start adding cream a little at a time and stop when I’m happy with the consistency, may not be 1 for 1 for 1 but I always end up with a great finished product if I say so myself! There is however one rule which is imperative one follows and that is cooking on a low to moderate flame, this has to do with preventing bread crumbs from browning to quickly that act as the crust before the meat has a chance to cook all the way through, think of it as low and slow!

As for seasoning salt and white pepper are fine, some people will add a little ground cloves, allspice or Chinese five spice but not necessary. For the best results if you have any day old bread process that into breadcrumbs and use that though store bought is also fine.

This recipe yields 10 - 150g or 15 – 100/110g Wallenbergarer. For a more traditional service serve with potatoes, peas and lingonberries, alternatively serve however you like!

Shopping List
Ground veal
Heavy cream
Eggs
Bread crumbs
Seasoning, see above
Clarified butter

My Mad Method

 Ready to serve!!











Break 1.3kl ground veal up and add 13 egg yokes









Mix to combine either with a mixed using the dough hook attachment or by hand








Add 1.3L cream a little at a time (see above)









Add seasoning to taste, (see above)












Mix to distribute seasoning evenly but be careful not to overwork the meat

Scoop 100 to 150g portions and roll them in bread crumbs









Gently form them into patties and collect them on a covered sheet pan for easy clean up








Heat pan with a low to moderate flame; add clarified butter and working in batched add the patties presentation side down







Cooking slowly for about 6 to 8 minutes until golden to light brown flip the patties and continue cooking until cooked through







Transfer to a sheet pan covered in foil for easy clean up and store in warm (not hot oven) until service, at service time either pour a little melted clarified butter or strained pan drippings over the patties
 

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